December 2009

During the summer you can grill the asparagus outdoors. The smoky flavor of a wood charcoal fire adds complexity to this substantial meal. While I call for green asparagus, try making the dish with a colorful array of asparagus—green, white, and purple. White miso, which is called shiro-miso in Japanese can be found in health food stores. Smooth rather than grainy miso is preferable for this recipe.

I first ate a version of this wonderful dish at Gilaneh restaurant in Tehran, on a late spring day at the end of May, weeks before Iran’s presidential election and the disputed voting results that brought turmoil to the city.

On that day, nothing could have been more peaceful than lunch by an open window two stories above a bustling street: lamb kebabs, chicken in a tangy pomegranate sauce and a dish of beans in a buttery sauce tinted pale yellow from turmeric and flecked with garlic and dill.

Garlic scapes are the green curly shoots that grow out of garlic when it's young, and apparently only hardneck garlic produces garlic scapes. The scapes are sometimes called green garlic or garlic spears, although many sources call the young, underdeveloped garlic bulbs green garlic. I first tried some of my garlic scapes in an omelet. Then I made a batch of garlic scape pesto, which one online source said was the most popular use of the scapes. I guess I would have to give the garlic scapes a mixed review as far as flavor.

Scapes are the wild and curly shoots that spring from the tops of garlic plants. They're brilliantly green, can be thick or thin, curved or corkscrewed, and, depending on how they're cut, just long or very long. They've got a mild garlic fragrance and a mellow garlic flavor. Smell the cut end or snap one and the scent will be a cross between garlic and summer grass. It's got a freshness that garlic loses as it develops.

Use one piece of Tilapia per person, recipe created by Kalyn with inspiration from the cooking instructions on Highliner Tilapia Loins.

I love tartar sauce so I decided to try to come up with a tasty tartar sauce that didn't have sugar and was lower in fat. It took a bit of experimenting, but this recipe combines fat-free Greek Yogurt, regular or reduced fat mayo, dill weed, capers, and dill pickle relish, and is not only easy-to-make, it's as delicious as any tartar sauce I've ever had. 

Napa cabbage, also known as Chinese cabbage, has crunchy leaves that pair well with a light sauce. Similar to bok choy, but more delicate (use either in this recipe), Napa cabbage is more elegant than regular firm-headed green cabbage. Slice the head of Napa lengthwise in half and remove the core. Roughly chop into 2-inch pieces. Then cook the cabbage in a searing hot skillet - high heat is essential - to caramelize the leaves. Saute in two batches so overcrowding doesn’t steam the vegetables. It’s fast and good for you.

The weather is cooling off, but there’s still plenty of succulent fresh zucchini, yellow crookneck, and pattypan squash at farmers’ markets. This dish tops grilled squash with gremolata, the classic Italian condiment made by chopping flat-leaf parsley, garlic, and lemon rind together. Citrusy and spicy, the relish also adds a garden-fresh brightness when sprinkled on sliced tomatoes, oven-roasted potatoes, corn-on-the-cob, seafood, and chicken. Gremolata is the classic garnish for osso buco, the dish of braised veal shanks.