December 2009

When I was growing up, upside-down cakes were made with pineapple, usually from a can. To create something reminiscent of that, but with a bit more seasonality and sophistication, I thought of a pear upside-down cake. It may not be obvious to beginners, but an upside-down cake starts with fruit on the bottom and batter on top; when it’s done, you flip it out of the pan so the fruit is on the top.

4 large Spanish onions
Olive oil (for sprinkling)
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme

1. Set the oven at 400 degrees. Have on hand a 12-inch baking dish.

2. Peel the onions, leaving the pointed ends and roots intact. Cut the onions into 1/2-inch wedges. Arrange them in the baking dish so they fit snugly, cut sides up. Sprinkle with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Cover loosely with foil. Roast the onions for 30 minutes. Remove the foil. (Prepare ahead 1 day up to this point; cool, cover, and refrigerate.)

Roasted carrots are a colorful side dish; here they’re accompanied by a bright parsley vinaigrette. The recipe comes from chefs Clark Frasier and Mark Gaier, co-owners of Summer Winter in Burlington and Arrows and MC Perkins Cove in Ogunquit, Maine, who use carrots dug from their own gardens.

A little sweetness brings out the best in roasted Brussels sprouts. Cook them with bacon and maple syrup until the sprouts are tender and the bacon has rendered its fat and turns crisp and golden. It’s true, everything’s better with bacon.

This spice-filled, smooth, rich pumpkin pie comes from restaurateur Lydia Shire of Locke-Ober and Scampo in Boston, and Blue Sky in York Beach, Maine. She makes it for her own table.

When she was a teenager, Cindy Carpenter’s mother taught her how to make this pie from “The Fannie Farmer Cookbook.’’ It is always the first pie to go at Thanksgiving, whatever other kinds the family makes. The pastry makes more than you need; roll out the scraps, cut them into shapes, and sprinkle them with cinnamon-sugar before baking.

I spent Saturday afternoon at Tags Hardware in Porter Square, signing "The New Boston Globe Cookbook," alongside Nathan Hasson, an affable gentleman from Porter Square Books who worked the cash box.

One woman came up to us and bought five books. She was getting a spatula for each one to wrap in the bow and was practically done with her Christmas shopping. Lots of Food section readers stopped by to say hello, which was great fun. We sold lots of books. Tags also hosted Santa and Mrs. Claus, was giving out freshly popped corn, and the place was packed.