August 2010

Also known as elote, Mexican-style corn on the cob can be boiled first or grilled over hot coals until the kernels are charred and toasty. It’s a dish that began as street food and is now served in good restaurants. The white cheese cotija is at many specialty markets, but you can substitute a dry, crumbly cheese such as feta. Sprinkle with cayenne pepper for a kick of spice, guajillo for smoky notes, or paprika for sweet earthiness. Finish with a spritz of lime to make it pop.

Fresh sardines are widely available in California, but can be more difficult to find in the rest of the country. If fresh sardines are not available in your area, you can make a terrific spread with canned sardines.

When you buy raw shrimp in their shells, you can also make a flavorful broth — a taste of the sea that’s better than bottled clam juice. Simply simmer the shells in water for 10 minutes, strain them, and you have the basis for a beautiful sauce or stew. While the shells cook for this pasta sauce, saute shrimp, then sugar snaps, and finish by stirring a little creme fraiche into the mixture, which gives it a richer taste. Put on a pot of spaghetti and in the time it takes to cook it, your work is done.

Steaming the tempeh first helps it stay moist and absorb this flavorful marinade. Any leftovers can be added to salads, sandwiches and vegetable dishes.

The sweetness of the tomatoes and the fennel is balanced by the savory, starchy beans.