October 2010

Crisp fall days make grilling a pleasure, especially when you’re serving luxurious swordfish. Until the weather gets cold, the fish are caught in the North Atlantic. In the market, look for thick steaks with even color and a nice sheen. Rub them with cumin, coriander, and cayenne to bring out deeper flavors. Local tomatoes peaked mid-month, but they are ripe for at least a few more weeks. Their sweet juiciness is a perfect foil for the meaty fish. Sear the steaks until golden, and set thick slices of regular tomatoes and cherry tomatoes to char beside the fish.

Sun-dried tomatoes are often parched and leathery or overmarinated and overpowering. The Goal here is meaty, sweet, chewy, and bright-tasting tomatoes, partnered with pasta and other, assertive ingredients that can stand up to the tomatoes' strong flavor. The Solution is first drain and rinse the tomatoes to rid them of their universally unpleasant marinades, then cut them into small pieces to tame their presence.