December 2010

Be sure to use very ripe, heavily speckled (or even black) bananas in this recipe. This recipe can be made using 5 thawed frozen bananas; since they release a lot of liquid naturally, they can bypass the microwaving in step 2 and go directly into the fine-mesh strainer. Do not use a thawed frozen banana in step 4; it will be too soft to slice. Instead, simply sprinkle the top of the loaf with sugar. The test kitchen’s preferred loaf pan measures 8½ by 4½ inches; if you use a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan, start checking for doneness five minutes earlier than advised in the recipe.

Tangy feta cheese creates a melted blanket of flavor over shrimp in tomato sauce and orzo (rice-shaped pasta). It makes a hearty supper.

Many fish-cake recipes begin with uncooked fish, which means the thick rounds spend a long time in the skillet. Use cooked salmon, a few cracker crumbs, generous spoonfuls of chili sauce (the kind you serve as a dip with shrimp cocktail), and the cakes need a brief saute only. Add red-pepper mayo and a handful of greens to the plate. If it’s breakfast you’re looking for, garnish each plump salmon cake with a rasher of bacon and an over-easy egg.

Use a food processor to make these, but pulse the motor gently so the fish does not turn into a puree.

Many cooks turn to salmon for celebration meals because the meat is rich, the color pretty, and the taste universally popular. And there are many ways to cook salmon. Roasting, the simplest, brings out the best qualities of the fish. Give cherry tomatoes a head start in a hot oven. When they’re collapsed and glistening, push them to the sides of the pan, and set the salmon in the center. In just a few minutes — measure the salmon at the thickest part and roast it 10 minutes per inch of fish — the flesh is firm, flaky, and pleasingly moist.

While the waffles can be eaten as soon as they are removed from the waffle iron, they will have a crispier exterior if rested in a warm oven for 10 minutes. (This method also makes it possible to serve everyone at the same time.) Buttermilk powder is available in most supermarkets and is generally located near the dried-milk products or in the baking aisle. Leftover buttermilk powder, which can be used in a number of baking applications, can be kept in the refrigerator for up to a year.

This dip is on the mild side. For a little more kick, increase the amount of dried crushed red pepper. Great dip for parties.

Begin the pasta with a quick homemade tomato sauce, much more satisfying than sauce from a jar, and a lot cleaner and fresher. Buy whole tomatoes and crush them yourself (instead of using canned crushed tomatoes, which are dense and heavy). Simmer them with fresh fennel for 10 minutes, then add olives and shrimp for a second-day dish as elegant as the first.

When you make a vegetarian curry, you can choose from among sturdy candidates such as potatoes, turnips, carrots, and sweet potatoes; firm-tender vegetables such as cauliflower, green beans, winter and summer squash, and peas; and heartier ones like chard and kale. If there is any rule, it’s that the colors in the bowl shouldn’t be drab or monotone. Spices are king in a curry. Assemble your own concoction or purchase a good powder or potent paste. Whether it’s mild or spicy sauce is up to you, but take care not to overwhelm the vegetables.

When you make a vegetarian curry, you can choose from among sturdy candidates such as potatoes, turnips, carrots, and sweet potatoes; firm-tender vegetables such as cauliflower, green beans, winter and summer squash, and peas; and heartier ones like chard and kale. If there is any rule, it’s that the colors in the bowl shouldn’t be drab or monotone. Spices are king in a curry. Assemble your own concoction or purchase a good powder or potent paste. Whether it’s mild or spicy sauce is up to you, but take care not to overwhelm the vegetables.