February 2014

You smash half the chickpeas in this recipe to make a spread, sort of a warm rustic hummus enhanced with garlic cumin and hot pepper, along with a liberal drizzle of olive oil. You can use either freshly cooked dried beans or canned chickpeas (also known as garbanzo beans), though freshly cooked is always preferable. Tuck some into a pita for a vegetarian sandwich or serve as a dip to eat with bread and olives; a dollop of minty yogurt and a drizzle of tahini sauce make nice additions.

Is it worth making pita at home? Absolutely. Store-bought pita (like store-bought sandwich bread) is often several days old. Warm, fragrant home-baked pita is obviously superior, and there’s a bit of a thrill when the breads puff up in the oven. And once you get the hang of it, it’s not difficult. For the best flavor, try to get freshly milled whole-wheat flour. Even though only a little is called for in the recipe, it makes a difference.

The recipes here is vegetarian and nearly vegan. It doesn't rely on either animal products or heavy carbs as belly-filling crutches, but instead allow the vegetables themselves to become centerpieces. A whole head of cauliflower boiled and then roasted until gloriously browned. And yes, they can be main courses.  The cauliflower could just as easily accompany larger dishes, but its supple textures and rich sauce — romesco — help them register as meaty and filling.