Saffron Risotto (Risotto alla Milanese)
During a recent trip to Italy, we learned that the way we make risotto — a low simmer, slowly adding liquid, constant stirring — isn’t how it’s done in Milan, a city famous for the dish. There, risotto comes together with blistering speed. The key is cooking at a vigorous pace over high heat, an approach that gets the dish on the table in less than half an hour. A simple homemade vegetable broth produces clean flavors in Saffron Risotto, a Milanese classic. A splash of balsamic vinegar brightens an otherwise earthy, herbaceous version scented with mushroom and sage. And, using a more conventional technique, the fruity aromas of sparkling prosecco complement the sweetness of shallots while adding acidity to balance the starch.
Saffron-rich Risotto alla Milanese is a specialty of Milan. Medium-grain Italian rice is essential for achieving a rich, creamy consistency, as it has the ideal starch content. Arborio rice is the most common choice for risotto in the United States, but cooks in Milan — and at Milk Street — prefer carnaroli; the grains better retain their structure and resist overcooking. With careful cooking, however, arborio will yield delicious results.
A quick five-ingredient vegetable broth (see “Easy Vegetable Broth” recipe below) is the best cooking liquid for this risotto; its fresh, clean flavor won’t compete with the other ingredients. If the taste and aroma of saffron don’t appeal to you, try our variation; the techniques we learned in Milan also work well for other flavors.
Don’t cook the rice to the ideal al dente texture before removing the pan from the burner because the grains will continue to cook with residual heat as you stir in the cheese and butter. Serve in shallow, warmed bowls to prevent the rice from cooling too quickly.
3½ cups vegetable broth (see recipe below)
1 teaspoon saffron threads
6 tablespoons (¾ stick) salted butter, cut into 1-tablespoon pieces, divided
1 cup carnaroli or arborio rice
1 ounce Parmesan cheese, finely grated (½ cup)
Kosher salt
4 teaspoons white balsamic vinegar
In a small saucepan over medium, bring the broth, covered, to a simmer. Reduce it to low to keep it warmed. In a small bowl or measuring cup, combine ½ cup of the hot broth and the saffron. Set aside.
In a large saucepan over medium-high, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter. Add the rice and cook, stirring constantly, until translucent at the edges, about 1 to 2 minutes. Add 2½ cups of the remaining hot broth and bring to a boil, then reduce to medium and cook, stirring frequently and briskly, until the grains are almost tender but still firm at the core (it will be quite soupy), about 8 to 10 minutes; adjust the heat as needed to maintain a vigorous simmer.
Add the saffron broth and cook, stirring frequently and briskly, until the rice is just shy of al dente but still soupy, 3 to 5 minutes. If the rice is thick and dry but still too firm, add the remaining hot broth in ¼-cup increments and continue to cook, stirring, until just shy of al dente.
Off heat, stir in the Parmesan, ½ teaspoon salt, and the remaining 4 tablespoons butter, 1 piece at a time. Taste and season with salt, then stir in the vinegar. Serve immediately.
Easy Vegetable Broth
Makes about 1 quart
This simple vegetable broth can be made in about 30 minutes. Use immediately after straining or cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate for up to five days.
Don’t simmer the broth uncovered. Partially covering the pan prevents excessive evaporation, but allows for some concentration of flavors.
2 medium carrots, peeled and chopped
2 large celery stalks, chopped
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 medium tomato, roughly chopped
1 large garlic clove, smashed and peeled
In a large saucepan over high, combine all of the ingredients with 5 cups of water and bring to a boil. Partially cover, then reduce to medium and cook for 20 minutes, adjusting the heat to maintain a lively simmer.
Pour the broth through a fine mesh strainer into a large bowl; discard the solids.
None Available.