Grains

For a gratin that can satisfy as a complete meal, we paired protein-rich farro and white beans with broccoli rabe. We toasted the farro to enhance its nuttiness and then cooked it in a mixture of water, vegetable broth, and white miso; the miso enhanced the creaminess of the gratin and deepened its flavor. Next, we blanched the rabe to tame its bite and lock in its vibrant color before quickly sautéing it with a generous amount of garlic and red pepper flakes. Sweet-tart sun-dried tomatoes added pops of flavor and a pleasing chewy texture.

Quinoa stews are common in many South American regions. But authentic recipes call for obscure ingredients such as annatto powder or Peruvian varieties of potatoes and corn. We set out to make a traditional quinoa stew with an easy-to-navigate ingredient list. We found that paprika has a similar flavor profile to annatto powder; we rounded out the flavor with cumin and coriander. Red bell pepper, tomatoes, red potatoes, sweet corn, and frozen peas were a nice mix of vegetables.

Farro, an ancient form of wheat that predates our modern bread wheat, comes in a few different forms, but our favorite is minimally processed whole farro, in which the grain’s germ and bran have been retained. Whole farro has a nutty flavor and delicately chewy texture, and it cooks in only 20 minutes, which makes it one of the fastest cooking whole grains. We found that the simplest cooking method was best: Boil in salted water for about 20 minutes until tender, drain well, and add to salads, soups, and side dishes, or store in the refrigerator for up to five days.

We prefer whole farro, in which the grain’s germ and bran have been retained. It has a nutty flavor and delicately chewy texture, and it cooks in only 20 minutes, making it one of the fastest-cooking whole grains. We found that the simplest cooking method was best: Just boil in salted water for about 20 minutes until tender and drain well. The cooked grain may be cooled briefly and combined with vegetables, a bright vinaigrette, and a sprinkling of cheese for a hearty salad. Cooked farro can be refrigerated for up to five days, which makes it a convenient make-ahead option.

The chewy, nutty brown rice that forms the base of our grain bowl was supereasy to make: We just poured it into plenty of boiling salted water and cooked it like pasta. While the rice cooked, we spread sliced carrots and shiitakes on a baking sheet and started roasting them in a hot oven and prepared pickled cucumbers to add crisp brightness to our bowl. When the vegetables were half-roasted, we cleared a space in the middle of the baking sheet and added four small salmon fillets, brushed with hoisin to boost their flavor and color.

We started with the garnish, frying sliced shallots until they were crisp and golden. Then we tossed diced tofu with sriracha and honey and left it to marinate while we quickly pickled some red cabbage and roasted some broccolini and carrots on the same baking sheet. Bulgur, the base of our grain bowl, was supereasy to make: We just poured it into plenty of boiling salted water and cooked it like pasta. We combined a portion of the pickling liquid with the shallot-infused oil, some mayonnaise, and a bit more sriracha to make a zippy dressing.

During a recent trip to Italy, we learned that the way we make risotto — a low simmer, slowly adding liquid, constant stirring — isn’t how it’s done in Milan, a city famous for the dish. There, risotto comes together with blistering speed. The key is cooking at a vigorous pace over high heat, an approach that gets the dish on the table in less than half an hour. A simple homemade vegetable broth produces clean flavors in Saffron Risotto, a Milanese classic. A splash of balsamic vinegar brightens an otherwise earthy, herbaceous version scented with mushroom and sage.

Most recipes for quinoa pilaf turn out woefully overcooked because they call for nearly twice as much liquid as they should. We cut the water back to ensure tender grains with a satisfying bite. We toast the quinoa in a dry skillet to develop its natural nutty flavor and finish our pilaf with a judicious amount of boldly flavored ingredients.

Cook the brown rice and quinoa separately (they’ll keep their integrity that way). Then stir in sauteed mushrooms and plenty of parsley. All three components can be cooked in advance and reheated together in a low oven.

Here are some simple instructions for cooking ancient grains at home. You can add sauteed vegetables and all kinds of seasonings to these basic recipes. All come from “Whole Grains Every Day, Every Way,” by Lorna Sass. Each serves 4.