A semifreddo is an Italian soft-frozen custard mousse. Grappa, which is floral and just a little edgy, bumps the musky, intoxicating sweetness of the melon up a notch.
Best served at room temperature or lightly chilled, eggplant purees can fill many roles -- appetizer dip for toasted pita or fresh vegetables, anchor of a meze platter, relish to dress up simply cooked meat or fish, or hearty vegetable side dish.
Typically Ligurian, this straightforward preparation matches flaky white fish with pungent basil and a sweet-tart tomato sauce (fonduta). The fish pieces are breaded with a panko-basil crust, then roasted in a hot oven and garnished with the sauce.
The weather is cooling off, but there’s still plenty of succulent fresh zucchini, yellow crookneck, and pattypan squash at farmers’ markets. This dish tops grilled squash with gremolata, the classic Italian condiment made by chopping flat-leaf parsley, garlic, and lemon rind together. Citrusy and spicy, the relish also adds a garden-fresh brightness when sprinkled on sliced tomatoes, oven-roasted potatoes, corn-on-the-cob, seafood, and chicken. Gremolata is the classic garnish for osso buco, the dish of braised veal shanks.
Gremolata is the classic Italian condiment made by chopping flat-leaf parsley, garlic, and lemon rind together. Citrusy and spicy, the relish also adds a garden-fresh brightness when sprinkled on sliced tomatoes, oven-roasted potatoes, corn-on-the-cob, seafood, and chicken. Gremolata is the classic garnish for osso buco, the dish of braised veal shanks. Newer gremolatas are made with chopped mint or capers (nice with lamb or salmon). Familiar vegetables just got a lot more interesting.
In some Italian-American kitchens, the traditional pasta e fagioli is pronounced pasta fajool. One of the authentic versions of the dish begins with cranberry beans, also known as shell beans, and in Italy as borlotti beans. They have red and white marbled pots, really stunning, and they're labor intensive to peel. Each pod -- don't get the green ones because the beans aren't ripe -- yields 3 or 4 beans. Watch a movie or daydream (I prefer the latter).
The weather is cooler and that’s the end of garden tomatoes - at least for the ripe ones. It’s back to the market, back to cans. Canned tomatoes are good for many things, including sauces, braises, and soups. But there’s something about fresh tomatoes (even those that are shipped from far, far away) that enhance cooking. Fresh tomatoes brighten a dish in a way that no tinned tomato can. In the off-season, however, stick with cherry tomatoes. They’re small and shiny red, and more likely to be at least almost ripe.