Main Course

Once you master the risotto technique, you can make flavorful versions throughout the year. This summery version is based on red, ripe tomatoes from the garden, but if you want to up the tomato quotient, surround the finished dish with slices of multicolored heirloom varieties. Best as a first course or vegetarian main course, it could also pair with a main course — grilled fish, for instance.

For a stromboli that's easy to put together, we started off with store-bought pizza dough. After rolling the dough into a rectangle, we layered provolone, mozzarella, sautéed broccoli, roasted red peppers, and kalamata olives (which added a bright, salty balance to the mixture) evenly over the dough. Then we brushed the borders of the dough with egg (to seal the seams) and folded the stromboli like a letter to seal in all the filling ingredients.

Most sweet potato soup recipes call for so many other ingredients that the sweet potato flavor is muted. By cutting back to just shallot, thyme, and butter and using water instead of broth, we put the focus back on the main ingredient. We also puree some of the potato skins into the soup for extra earthiness. However, the real key to intensifying the sweet potato flavor was using only a minimal amount of flavor-diluting water. To do so, we let the sweet potatoes sit in hot water off heat for 20 minutes to make use of an enzyme that reduces their starch content.

Pasta alla vodka is a classic because each ingredient works together beautifully: the heat of the red-pepper flakes and vodka, the sweetness of the tomato and the richness of the cream. And that combination works equally well with beans and greens. Use chickpeas or white beans, and kale or any other dark leafy green, like Swiss chard or broccoli rabe. The finished dish keeps for up to three days in the fridge. Eat it on its own, with crusty bread for dunking, or over pasta.

This noodle dish celebrates the pungent, spicy notes of ginger by both infusing it in stock to create a warming broth and frying it with shallots and panko to create crunchy ginger crumbs you’ll want to sprinkle onto everything: eggs, rice or even a savory porridge. Feel free to double the amount of the ginger crumbs, if you like; they’ll keep in an airtight jar at room temperature for up to one week. Serve these noodles with your protein of choice — tofu, fish, leftover roast chicken — or any cooked vegetable for a complete meal.

No need for a giant 13 by 9-inch casserole dish (not to mention endless leftovers). These scaled-down enchiladas come together in a single pan. We created a smoky, gravy-like sauce by combining chili powder, tomato paste, shallots, flour (for thickening), and broth for some sweet and earthy flavors. We made the sauce in the skillet, set aside a portion of it, and then built the whole dish on top of the remaining sauce, nestling cheese-filled tortillas into the thick, spicy goodness.

Piccata sauce — that buttery, briny combination of lemon, butter and capers, silky in texture and tart in flavor — is not just for chicken or swordfish. It’s also a zesty anchor for roasted vegetables. Here, cauliflower is roasted at high heat, which concentrates the flavor, adds nuttiness and encourages caramelization, before being doused with the sauce. Chickpeas make this a fuller vegetarian meal, but leave them out if you’d rather.

To elevate our tart to entrée status, we wanted a crust that was delicate, sturdy, and flavorful, with a filling to match. To increase the flavor of the crust and keep it tender, we swapped out part of the white flour for nutty whole wheat, and we used butter rather than shortening. To punch up its flaky texture and introduce more structure, we gave the crust a series of folds to create numerous interlocking layers. 

Rice and lentils with caramelized onions is a much-loved food in the Middle East. This is our take on the version we tasted in Lebanon. The rice and lentils are simmered together in the same pot, with the lentils getting a 10-minute head start so both finish at the same time. Meanwhile, the onions are fried until crisp and deeply caramelized — almost burnt, really — to coax out a savory bittersweet flavor.

For a gratin that can satisfy as a complete meal, we paired protein-rich farro and white beans with broccoli rabe. We toasted the farro to enhance its nuttiness and then cooked it in a mixture of water, vegetable broth, and white miso; the miso enhanced the creaminess of the gratin and deepened its flavor. Next, we blanched the rabe to tame its bite and lock in its vibrant color before quickly sautéing it with a generous amount of garlic and red pepper flakes. Sweet-tart sun-dried tomatoes added pops of flavor and a pleasing chewy texture.