Pasta

IN the last 20 years or so, pad Thai has gone from being virtually unknown in this country to being a restaurant and takeout staple. It’s easy to see why: the tangy, crunchy, slightly sweet noodles are irresistible. But it’s difficult to understand why more people don’t make it at home, since pad Thai is essentially a stir-fry (in Thailand they refer to it as a Chinese noodle dish). It requires little more than chopping and stirring, and comes together in less than a half-hour.

One of restaurateur Jody Adams’s favorite dishes is based on a Spanish specialty in which noodles (angel hair here) are browned first in olive oil. It’s a delicious one-pot dish, which makes cleanup a breeze.

At Haley House Cafe in Roxbury, owner Didi Emmons gives cooking classes and this vegetarian lasagna gets positive reviews, she says, even from the most skeptical, picky, nay-saying youth. It’s a good way to introduce tofu to kids (there’s mozzarella too). Emmons layers slices of roasted butternut squash with spinach, mashed tofu, tomato sauce, and uncooked lasagna noodles. The noodles soften in the liquid in the dish.

You have to cheat a little to put spring on the plate this time of year. If you want to make a primavera (from the Italian, alla primavera means in the style of spring), you have no other choice. There are no fresh peas, but plenty of frozen sweet ones. Other greens come from markets in warmer climates. You can find plenty of sweet onions and fennel with bushy fronds. There are small carrots and parsnips; these sweet roots give the garnish a little heft.

This dish is best with short molded pasta, such as fusilli, campanelle, or orecchiette. Prepare the cauliflower for roasting after you put the garlic in the oven; this way, both should finish roasting at about the same time.

The buttermilk, cream, and cheddar are nostalgic, while the addition of caramelized shallots and sage add a modern touch.

A hearty bowl of pasta plus savory cheese? You'd never know this whole-grain comfort food is diet-friendly! Squash supplies all the vitamin A you need for the day.

Why you'll make it: Because it's the perfect pasta dish — few ingredients, easy prep, big flavors.