Sauces, Dips & Spreads

Scapes are the wild and curly shoots that spring from the tops of garlic plants. They're brilliantly green, can be thick or thin, curved or corkscrewed, and, depending on how they're cut, just long or very long. They've got a mild garlic fragrance and a mellow garlic flavor. Smell the cut end or snap one and the scent will be a cross between garlic and summer grass. It's got a freshness that garlic loses as it develops.

I love tartar sauce so I decided to try to come up with a tasty tartar sauce that didn't have sugar and was lower in fat. It took a bit of experimenting, but this recipe combines fat-free Greek Yogurt, regular or reduced fat mayo, dill weed, capers, and dill pickle relish, and is not only easy-to-make, it's as delicious as any tartar sauce I've ever had. 

To add a layer of complexity, hummus can be topped with either warm fava beans (called ful), toasted pine nuts, or more tahini, which is ladled into the center and sometimes doused with an aromatic olive oil. Stewed fava beans over hummus are a revelation atop a revelation: earthy, pepper-tinged, and meaty without a trace of meat.

In this dish the two robust beans slug it out, both vying for your palate’s attention, neither ever quite vanquishing the other. It’s a fight you’re happy to have waged in your mouth. In pursuit of a recipe for the fava beans,

Gremolata is the classic Italian condiment made by chopping flat-leaf parsley, garlic, and lemon rind together. Citrusy and spicy, the relish also adds a garden-fresh brightness when sprinkled on sliced tomatoes, oven-roasted potatoes, corn-on-the-cob, seafood, and chicken. Gremolata is the classic garnish for osso buco, the dish of braised veal shanks. Newer gremolatas are made with chopped mint or capers (nice with lamb or salmon). Familiar vegetables just got a lot more interesting.

I spent Saturday afternoon at Tags Hardware in Porter Square, signing "The New Boston Globe Cookbook," alongside Nathan Hasson, an affable gentleman from Porter Square Books who worked the cash box.

One woman came up to us and bought five books. She was getting a spatula for each one to wrap in the bow and was practically done with her Christmas shopping. Lots of Food section readers stopped by to say hello, which was great fun. We sold lots of books. Tags also hosted Santa and Mrs. Claus, was giving out freshly popped corn, and the place was packed.

This sauce can be used to accompany spring rolls, stir fries, beef skewers, or sushi.