Vegetarian

I first ate a version of this wonderful dish at Gilaneh restaurant in Tehran, on a late spring day at the end of May, weeks before Iran’s presidential election and the disputed voting results that brought turmoil to the city.

On that day, nothing could have been more peaceful than lunch by an open window two stories above a bustling street: lamb kebabs, chicken in a tangy pomegranate sauce and a dish of beans in a buttery sauce tinted pale yellow from turmeric and flecked with garlic and dill.

Napa cabbage, also known as Chinese cabbage, has crunchy leaves that pair well with a light sauce. Similar to bok choy, but more delicate (use either in this recipe), Napa cabbage is more elegant than regular firm-headed green cabbage. Slice the head of Napa lengthwise in half and remove the core. Roughly chop into 2-inch pieces. Then cook the cabbage in a searing hot skillet - high heat is essential - to caramelize the leaves. Saute in two batches so overcrowding doesn’t steam the vegetables. It’s fast and good for you.

The weather is cooling off, but there’s still plenty of succulent fresh zucchini, yellow crookneck, and pattypan squash at farmers’ markets. This dish tops grilled squash with gremolata, the classic Italian condiment made by chopping flat-leaf parsley, garlic, and lemon rind together. Citrusy and spicy, the relish also adds a garden-fresh brightness when sprinkled on sliced tomatoes, oven-roasted potatoes, corn-on-the-cob, seafood, and chicken. Gremolata is the classic garnish for osso buco, the dish of braised veal shanks.

If you're making the beans to use for the soup or the sausages, be sure to save the cooking liquid.

1 pound dried cannellini (white kidney beans)
8 cups room-temperature water

Adapted from Cesare Casella Time: 45 minutes

Enchiladas are a blank slate. They can be filled with anything that suits your fancy, from plain cheese to tender, long-braised -- or grilled or stewed -- meats. Hearty vegetables and beans are among my favorite fillings. Under a blanket of chili sauce and cheese, enchiladas are substantial to begin with, so a veggie filling can lighten things a little. I usually turn to mushrooms (loaded with garlic), potatoes, and greens.

Amber cup squash looks like a miniature pumpkin. It requires some work to seed and peel, but you get a meaty flesh that makes a fine vegetarian supper. In this recipe, adapted from “The Farmers’ Market Guide to Vegetables,’’ the flesh is simmered with onions, garlic, tomatoes, and yellow and red bell peppers to create a rich, flavorful stew to ladle over couscous. (You can also use butternut squash, already peeled and seeded if you’re in a hurry.) Before serving, sprinkle a pungent blend of finely chopped fresh chili peppers, parsley, and lemon rind to add a crisp and savory tang.

Make this colorful, filling vegetarian soup - with tomatoes, corn, zucchini, black beans, and rice - in about 30 minutes. Add a squeeze of lime, leaves of fresh cilantro (or parsley), along with warm tortillas, and you have a satisfying weeknight supper. To save time, start cooking the onions with oregano (the Mexican variety is ideal here, if you can find it) while you prepare the golden bell pepper and zucchini. The best and quickest way to warm tortillas is one at a time over a medium gas flame.

The weather is cooler and that’s the end of garden tomatoes - at least for the ripe ones. It’s back to the market, back to cans. Canned tomatoes are good for many things, including sauces, braises, and soups. But there’s something about fresh tomatoes (even those that are shipped from far, far away) that enhance cooking. Fresh tomatoes brighten a dish in a way that no tinned tomato can. In the off-season, however, stick with cherry tomatoes. They’re small and shiny red, and more likely to be at least almost ripe.