Joe Froggers
What is a Joe Frogger? They are famous molasses cookies made long ago by old Uncle Joe of Marblehead, Mass. The giant molasses cookie was born in this North Shore community more than 200 years ago, and while some may think of Joe Froggers as relics from dusty Yankee cookbooks and Colonial timepieces, they are still cherished in their hometown. This is especially true when the spicy treat helps to take the chill off icy weather.
Marblehead’s confectionary pride and joy generally appeals to those who like the bite of ginger snaps, but it may not be the cookie of choice for those with a sweet tooth. “You either like them or you don’t because they just have such a distinct flavor,’’ says Blair Porter, owner of Marblehead’s Ladycakes Bakery. “I like them because they have the taste and dry texture of gingerbread that I love.’’ Joe Froggers have a bit more kick than the typical gingerbread cookie, however, mainly due to a distinctive ingredient: rum. The traditional recipe calls for dark rum, in particular, which provides the cookies with a savory infusion. “The rum gives them an exquisite flavor,’’ Porter says. The recipe used by Blair Porter of Ladycakes Bakery is based on this traditional formula from “A Book of Favorite Recipes,’’ compiled in 1994 by the Gerry School Cookbook committee. Blair’s adaptations include using dark rum and blackstrap molasses. You can also use regular rum and molasses.
The recipe for Joe Froggers has proven to be as hardy as the cookies themselves and has been altered little since Colonial times. Susan Livingston, a longtime Marblehead resident and owner of the Harborside House bed and breakfast, makes Joe Froggers as treats for her guests. “They’re different from the usual molasses cookies. They keep well, and you can make them any size. Plus, they’re unique to Marblehead and have a little bit of mystique and history.’’ Ladycakes on School Street sells the cookies all year, drawing locals and curious tourists. The bakery uses blackstrap molasses in its Joe Froggers, which delivers a zing when it hits the back of your tongue. “I like the dark, bitter flavor of blackstrap molasses,’’ Porter says. “It gives the cookies such a distinctive taste.’’ Since they are sticky and heavy, Joe Froggers are not easy cookies to make. The batter is very thick, particularly if it includes the viscous blackstrap molasses, and requires refrigerating in order to ease rolling. “They’re very messy to make, but they are excellent,’’ Porter says as she sinks her teeth into a Joe Frogger and takes a bite of local history. Ladycakes Bakery, 2 School St., Marblehead, 781-631-2253, www.ladycakesbakery.com Adapted from “A Book of Favorite Recipes’’
4 cups flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 cup solid vegetable shortening
1 cup sugar
1 cup blackstrap or regular molasses
6 tablespoons hot water
2 tablespoons dark or regular rum
1 teaspoon baking soda Extra flour (for rolling)
1. In a bowl, whisk the flour, salt, ginger, nutmeg, allspice, and cloves to blend them.
2. In a large bowl, cream the shortening and sugar until soft.
3. In another bowl, whisk the molasses, hot water, rum, and baking soda (the mixture will begin to bubble).
4. Stir the flour mixture into the shortening alternately with the molasses mixture until blended. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatula and beat well again. The dough will be quite stiff.
5. Scrape down the sides of the bowl again. Shape the dough into a large flat cake. Wrap in foil and refrigerate for several hours or overnight.
6. Set the oven at 375 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
7. On a floured counter, roll the dough 1/4-inch thick. For traditional froggers, use a 4-inch cutters dipped often in flour or use a coffee can. Transfer the dough to the sheets.
8. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes or until the cookies are set. Let them sit for a couple of minutes on the baking sheets. Transfer to wire racks to cool.