Poached Salmon with Butter Sauce
We’ve all had poached salmon that’s bland and dry. Simmer it gently in a zippy court bouillon — an infused cooking liquid with rice vinegar, orange rind, and peppercorns — and the fish texture will be silky with sublime, clean flavors. Begin with a 3-pound piece of boneless salmon (skin still on). The fishmonger will cut the salmon evenly into six portions, or do it yourself at home. The skin keeps the fish intact during poaching. After the fish is poached, slip off the skin, let some of the cooking liquid boil rapidly until reduced and concentrated, and swirl in butter for a rich, citrusy sauce.
The next day, flake the leftover salmon. Add sauteed red pepper and onion, and season with Old Bay, Dijon mustard, cayenne pepper, Worcestershire, and enough bread crumbs and egg to bind the mixture. Chill and shape into cakes. Then saute in oil until golden. Yesterday’s delicate salmon becomes today’s crusty, lightly spicy salmon cakes. Nothing bland here.
SALMON
3 cups water
1/2 cup rice wine vinegar
2 teaspoons salt
1 leek, halved
1 carrot, halved
Pared rind and juice of 1 orange
5 peppercorns
1 bay leaf
3 pounds boneless salmon (skin on), cut into 6 even pieces
SAUCE
3/4 cup salmon poaching liquid
3 tablespoons butter, cut up
Salt and pepper to taste
Salmon
1. In a pot large enough to hold the salmon in one layer, combine the water, vinegar, salt, leek, carrot, orange rind and juice, peppercorns, and bay leaf. Heat over medium-high heat until the mixture comes to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove and discard leek and carrot.
2. Add salmon, turn the heat to medium-low, and poach for about 5 minutes or until the fish is just cooked through. Don’t let the water boil.
3. Use a wide metal spatula to lift the salmon from the liquid, peel off the skin, and tent salmon with foil while you make the sauce. (Set aside 2 pieces of salmon for salmon cakes.)
Sauce
1. In a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan, bring the poaching liquid to a boil. Let it simmer steadily for 5 minutes or until reduced by half.
2. Whisk in the butter.
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