Tomato-Olive Focaccia
To achieve the texture we found in Bari, Italy, the dough must be wet — so wet, in fact, it verges on a thick yet pourable batter. Resist the temptation to add more flour. Shaping such a sticky, high-hydration dough by hand is impossible. Instead, the dough is gently poured and scraped into the oiled baking pan; gravity settles it into an even layer.
If you have trouble finding Castelvetrano olives, substitute any large, meaty green olive.
When slicing baked focaccia for serving, use a serrated knife and a sawing motion to cut without compressing it. If desired, serve with extra virgin olive oil for dipping.
For convenience, the dough can be prepared and transferred to the baking pan a day in advance. After it has settled in the pan, cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate. The next day, prepare the toppings. Uncover, top the dough with the olives and tomatoes, and let stand at room temperature for 45 minutes, then finish and bake as directed.
Leave the dough undisturbed as it rises. Handle the dough gently when transferring it to the baking pan. The goal is to retain as much gas in the dough as possible so the focaccia bakes up with an airy texture. Avoid glass and ceramic baking dishes; neither type will produce a crisp, browned exterior, and glass is not safe to use in a 500 degree oven.
3⅔ cups (500 grams) bread flour
5 teaspoons instant yeast
1 teaspoon white sugar
2 cups water, cool room temperature
8 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided
3½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided
1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
1 cup Castelvetrano olives, pitted and halved (see head-note for substitution)
1 teaspoon dried oregano
¾ teaspoon ground black pepper
In a stand mixer with the dough hook, mix the flour, yeast, and sugar on medium speed until combined, about 30 seconds. With the mixer on low, drizzle in the water, then increase to medium and mix until the ingredients form a very wet, smooth dough, about 5 minutes. Turn off the mixer, cover the bowl, and let stand for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, coat the bottom and sides of a large bowl with 2 tablespoons of oil; set aside.
Sprinkle 2 teaspoons of salt over the dough, then knead on medium until smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes; the dough will be wet enough to cling to the sides of the bowl. Using a silicone spatula, scrape the dough into the oiled bowl. Dip your fingers into the oil pooled at the sides of the bowl and dab the surface of the dough until completely coated with oil. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature for 5½ to 6 hours; during this time, the dough will double in volume, deflate, then rise again (but will not double in volume again).
After the dough has risen for about 4½ hours, heat the oven to 500 degrees with a baking steel or stone on the middle rack. Mist a 9-by-13-inch metal baking pan with cooking spray, then pour 2 tablespoons of the remaining oil in the center of the pan; set aside.
When the dough is ready, gently pour it into the prepared pan, scraping the sides of the bowl with a silicone spatula to loosen; try to retain as much air in the dough as possible. Eventually the dough will settle into an even layer in the pan; do not spread the dough with a spatula, as this will cause it to deflate. Set aside while you prepare the tomatoes.
In a medium bowl, use a potato masher to lightly crush the tomatoes. Scatter the olives over the dough, then do the same with the tomatoes, leaving the juice and seeds in the bowl. If the dough has not filled the pan, use your hands to lightly press the toppings to push the dough into the corners. Let stand uncovered at room temperature for 20 minutes.
Drizzle the dough with the remaining 4 tablespoons oil, making sure each tomato is coated. Sprinkle evenly with the oregano, remaining 1½ teaspoons salt, and the pepper. Place the pan on the baking steel or stone and bake until golden brown and the sides of the focaccia have pulled away from the pan, 20 to 22 minutes. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 5 minutes. Using a wide metal spatula, lift the focaccia from the pan and slide it onto the rack. Cool for at least 30 minutes before serving.
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