Chinese Chili and Scallion Noodles
While we preferred udon noodles, lo mein and even spaghetti are fine substitutes. A simple chili oil, made by infusing vegetable oil with red pepper flakes, can be adjusted to taste. To soften the bite of the scallion whites, we add them to the hot oil.
Don’t walk away while heating the oil. The sesame seeds can burn in an instant, and the red pepper flakes will blacken and become bitter. The seeds should be just turning golden, and the pepper should be pleasantly fragrant.
12 ounces udon noodles, lo mein, or spaghetti
5 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons unseasoned rice wine vinegar
3 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
¼ cup grape-seed or other neutral oil
5 teaspoons sesame seeds
1¼ teaspoons red pepper flakes
12 scallions, white and green parts separated, and sliced thinly on the bias
4 fried eggs, to serve (optional)
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Add the noodles and cook until al dente, then drain. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, and sesame oil.
Set a large nonstick skillet over medium heat, add the neutral oil, sesame seeds, and pepper flakes, and heat until the pepper flakes are fragrant and the sesame seeds begin to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Off the heat, stir in the scallion whites, then transfer the oil mixture to the bowl with the soy sauce mixture.
Add the cooked noodles to the sauce and toss. Add the scallion greens, reserving some for garnish, and toss. Divide among 4 serving bowls and top each with more scallion greens and a fried egg, if desired.
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