Vegetarian

Apolinaras and I ventured back to HMart on Super Bowl Sunday and enjoyed big bowls of udon soup for lunch from the Japanese section of food court. We always go back and forth on what to order because everything looks so tasty, but I think we made a good choice, because the soup was just delicious and packed with thin slices of tofu, seaweed, green onions, and broccoli– so good! We’d also never had udon noodles before and had a great time slurping them up.

Home turf: California

Local flavor: In health-conscious California, chili is as likely to be made without meat as it is with it. No self-respecting Texan would sign off on chili with beans, squash, and bulgur—but this lean, mean dish is as delicious as it is healthful.

Make it a meal: continue the Cali fantasy with whole grain bread, an arugula salad with mushrooms and garlicky vinaigrette, and Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (California, $8 per six-pack).

Beans baked very slowly for several hours develop a creamy texture, while the liquid they cook in, which thickens to a syrup, acquires a caramelized flavor. The kale practically melts in this casserole, going from bitter to sweet. I love using lima beans in this dish because they’re so big and their texture is so luxurious.

When you make a vegetarian curry, you can choose from among sturdy candidates such as potatoes, turnips, carrots, and sweet potatoes; firm-tender vegetables such as cauliflower, green beans, winter and summer squash, and peas; and heartier ones like chard and kale. If there is any rule, it’s that the colors in the bowl shouldn’t be drab or monotone. Spices are king in a curry. Assemble your own concoction or purchase a good powder or potent paste. Whether it’s mild or spicy sauce is up to you, but take care not to overwhelm the vegetables.

When you make a vegetarian curry, you can choose from among sturdy candidates such as potatoes, turnips, carrots, and sweet potatoes; firm-tender vegetables such as cauliflower, green beans, winter and summer squash, and peas; and heartier ones like chard and kale. If there is any rule, it’s that the colors in the bowl shouldn’t be drab or monotone. Spices are king in a curry. Assemble your own concoction or purchase a good powder or potent paste. Whether it’s mild or spicy sauce is up to you, but take care not to overwhelm the vegetables. 

A confession: Every Thanksgiving I cringe (I hope not enough for others at the table to notice) when the inevitable dish of marshmallow-topped or otherwise candied sweet potatoes appears. Sweet potatoes possess such an individual, earthy sweetness of their own, I can’t help but wonder why cooks push it into overdrive? Here is a recipe that gives Thanksgiving sweet potatoes a slight spin, keeping the sweetness in check with savory and piquant complements: black beans and radishes in a salad.

Infusing the chicken broth with the squash's seeds and fibers helps to reinforce the earthy squash flavor. We found that a 2-pound squash consistently yields a cup or so more than the 3 1/2 cups in step 1; this can be added to the skillet along with the squash scrapings in step 2. To make this dish vegetarian, vegetable broth can be used instead of chicken broth, but the resulting risotto will have more pronounced sweetness.

A well-stocked pantry is a good starting point for making a hearty homemade soup like this one. Just add some fresh vegetables, bread and cheese and you've got dinner (and tomorrow's lunch).

 Just the thought of lentil soup, a classic favorite, can arouse heady associations of warm, savory satisfaction.

This version, from Real Simple magazine, overflows with good things to round out its rich flavor spectrum: leeks and kale, tomatoes and sweet potato, thyme and basil, plus a dusting of Parmesan chees, if you like.

As for the lentils: The magazine's editors point out that "basic brown lentils hold their shape better during cooking than pricier red and yellow lentils, so they're terrific for soups."

My style of entertaining has decidedly mellowed over the years. Gone are the days of plated 3-course dinners and a la minute cooking. Now I serve (heavy) hors d’oeuvres followed by a family-style main meal, and everything is cooked in advanced. I’d rather sacrifice a little refinement in favor of enjoying my company.

Not feeling very creative, I decided on Tandoori Lamb. I like it because it’s easy to prepare, but still has a complex flavor that always impresses. Though I’ve made this dish many times for many occasions, no one in this group had had it before.