Italian Vegetable Stew (Ciambotta)
Italy’s ciambotta is a ratatouille-like stew chock-full of veggies that makes for a hearty one-bowl meal with nary a trace of meat. We wanted to avoid the ill fate of most recipes, which end in mushy vegetables drowning in a weak broth. In order to optimize the texture of the zucchini and peppers, we employed the dry heat of a skillet. To address the broth, we embraced eggplant’s natural tendency to fall apart and cooked it until it completely assimilated into a thickened tomato-enriched sauce. Finally, we found that a traditional pestata of garlic and herbs provided the biggest flavor punch when added near the end of cooking.
Serve this hearty vegetable stew with crusty bread.
Pestata
1/3 cup chopped fresh basil
1/3 cup fresh oregano leaves
6 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Stew
12 ounces eggplant, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
Salt
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 pound russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 1/4 cups water
1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, drained with juice reserved and chopped coarse
2 zucchini (8 ounces each), seeded and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
2 red or yellow bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 cup shredded fresh basil
1. FOR THE PESTATA: Process all ingredients in food processor until finely ground, about 1 minute, scraping sides as necessary. Set aside.
2. FOR THE STEW: Toss eggplant with 1½ teaspoons salt in bowl. Line surface of large plate with double layer of coffee filters and lightly spray with vegetable oil spray. Spread eggplant in even layer over coffee filters. Microwave eggplant, uncovered, until dry to touch and slightly shriveled, 8 to 12 minutes, tossing once halfway through to ensure that eggplant cooks evenly.
3. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in Dutch oven over high heat until shimmering. Add eggplant, onion, and potatoes; cook, stirring frequently, until eggplant browns and surface of potatoes becomes translucent, about 2 minutes. Push vegetables to sides of pot; add 1 tablespoon oil and tomato paste to clearing. Cook paste, stirring frequently, until brown fond develops on bottom of pot, about 2 minutes. Add 2 cups water and chopped tomatoes and juice, scraping up any browned bits, and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium, cover, and gently simmer until eggplant is completely broken down and potatoes are tender, about 20 to 25 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over high heat until smoking. Add zucchini, bell peppers, and ½ teaspoon salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are browned and tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Push vegetables to sides of skillet; add pestata and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir pestata into vegetables and transfer vegetables to bowl. Add remaining ¼ cup water to skillet off heat, scraping up browned bits.
5. Remove pot from heat and stir reserved vegetables and water from skillet into vegetables in Dutch oven. Cover pot and let stand for 20 minutes to allow flavors to meld. Stir in basil and season with salt to taste; serve.
TECHNIQUE
WHAT'S A PESTATA?
A relative of pesto, pistou, picada, and gremolata, pestata is a potent garlic, herb, and olive oil puree. When stirred into the ciambotta toward the end of cooking, its grassy bite freshens the rich, earthy flavors of the stew.
FRESHENING UP
A pestata made with olive oil, fresh oregano and basil, garlic, and red pepper flakes brightens the stew.
COAXING BIG FLAVOR OUT OF WATERY PRODUCE
Eggplant, potatoes, zucchini, peppers, and onions have plenty of flavor to offer—provided you cook off their excess water. Then, to develop the stew’s savory depth, build a concentrated fond with tomato paste.
BUILD STEW BASE
To deepen their flavors, cook the potatoes, onion, and eggplant (parcooked so it breaks down to thicken the stew) in a Dutch oven.
ENHANCE FOND
Sautéing tomato paste builds up a savory crust, which we deglaze with water and canned tomatoes to boost the stew’s flavor.
SAUTÉ WATERY VEGGIES IN SKILLET
Browning the peppers and zucchini separately in a shallow pan cooks off moisture and deepens their flavor.
ADD PESTATA
Clear the center of the pan, add the pestata, and briefly sauté. The herb-garlic mixture will add a fresh burst of flavor.
COMBINE AND WAIT
After marrying the two batches of vegetables, let the stew stand for 20 minutes to allow the flavors to meld.
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