July 2010

Tossed into a red-hot cast iron skillet, a pristine fillet of catfish is burnished (not burned) with a peppery spice blend that — much like a breaded coating — helps keep the flesh steamy-moist. As the skillet enters the oven for the five-minute finish, that’s the cue for the butter-slathered roll to follow suit, ensuring the only thing not sizzling-hot when the plate emerges tableside is the cold, creamy salve of bracing remoulade (and a smattering of crunchy garnish). One bite and you’ll forget the ’80s ever hijacked Cajun cookery and used its powers for evil.

We’ve all had poached salmon that’s bland and dry. Simmer it gently in a zippy court bouillon — an infused cooking liquid with rice vinegar, orange rind, and peppercorns — and the fish texture will be silky with sublime, clean flavors. Begin with a 3-pound piece of boneless salmon (skin still on). The fishmonger will cut the salmon evenly into six portions, or do it yourself at home. The skin keeps the fish intact during poaching.

We’ve all had poached salmon that’s bland and dry. Simmer it gently in a zippy court bouillon — an infused cooking liquid with rice vinegar, orange rind, and peppercorns — and the fish texture will be silky with sublime, clean flavors. Begin with a 3-pound piece of boneless salmon (skin still on). The fishmonger will cut the salmon evenly into six portions, or do it yourself at home. The skin keeps the fish intact during poaching.

Fiber-rich jicama is crunchy and refreshing; its texture is similar to an apple's. Sub chef Shaw's salad for classic Waldorf at your next picnic. No mayo means less fat, while chile powder and cheese add major flavor.

While nothing could be easier to toss in a salad, mild-mannered baby spinach always seems to fall flat. What could we do to ruffle this pile of leaves? Few greens can beat the convenience of prewashed baby spinach, but these tender leaves—and their flavor—go limp in salads. We wanted a salad that made the most of sweet, tender baby spinach.

Cajeta is a goat's-milk caramel popular in Mexico where it's made into candies or drizzled over ice cream and other desserts. The word cajeta is Spanish for "small box," named for the containers the caramel was traditionally packed in.

Making your own cajeta is worth the extra bit of work, but you can also buy it or substitute its South American cousin, dulce de leche.

Cajeta is a goat's-milk caramel popular in Mexico where it's made into candies or drizzled over ice cream and other desserts. The word cajeta is Spanish for "small box," named for the containers the caramel was traditionally packed in.

Making your own cajeta is worth the extra bit of work, but you can also buy it or substitute its South American cousin, dulce de leche.

Summer corn and vine-ripened tomatoes are already close to perfection, and they taste best when prepared simply. Here, the corn is sautéed with scallions in butter, the tomatoes are lightly dressed with oil and cider vinegar, and then the two components are tossed together so that their flavors and juices mix into something new.

This refreshing summer salad can sit in the refrigerator for a few hours without deteriorating, so it makes a great choice for bringing to work or to a summer picnic.

Recipe adapted from Patricia Wells’s The Provence Cookbook.